Biking UP Michigan

Few places in the United States can eclipse the cool beauty of the Great Lakes in the heat of summer. The Upper Peninsula is the perfect summer getaway.

We'd planned this road trip for several years in a row, but family obligations stopped us each time. Finally, everything fell into place in the summer of 2018.

Each morning, we'd take a ride on a major bike trail. Each afternoon, we explored historic sites, natural areas, and the rugged beauty of the coastlines of the Great Lakes. We focused on Northern Michigan: Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, and Lake Superior in the Petoskey Area (just "Below" the Mackinac Straits) and the Upper Peninsula ("Above" the Mackinac Straits) of Michigan.

After his service in World War I, John's great uncle Curt Knoblock was among those who established the dolomite mine at Drummond Island. Uncle Curt managed part of the operation for many years.

In 1952, his memoir of the experience was published as the book Above Below, recounting stories of characters he knew on Drummond Island and De Tour.

Since John had never seen the Great Lakes before, we couldn't call this a homecoming so much as a look into the past coupled with the beauty of the present. We met our own cast of characters along the way.

Itinerary

Auburn, Indiana

Auburn Cord Dusenburg Museum
DINING: Cebolla’s Mexican Grill

Grand Rapids Area

Riding the Big Rapids Riverwalk

Along the Muskegon River in Michigan, Big Rapids Riverwalk stretches several miles through the heart of Big Rapids, with scenic views of - you guessed it - river rapids from this linear park that links with the White Pine Trail.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Gilmore Car Museum
DINING: Flat River Grill, Lowell; Crankers and Biggby Coffee, Big Rapids

Charlevoix

PARKS: Birch Lake, Charlevoix Harbor
DRIVING TOUR: Charlevoix Mushroom Houses
SHOPPING: Uncle Bills Orchard

Petoskey & Harbor Springs

We spent several days here with beautiful weather for hiking, biking, and paddling, riding the entire Little Traverse Wheelway between Charlevoix, Petoskey, and Harbor Springs as well as the North Western State Trail from the trail junction near the Top of Michigan Trails Council headquarters to Alanson.

A hike on a scenic section of the North Country Trail with Tim Calloway, Trail Foreman for the Harbor Springs Chapter of the North Country Trail Association, was also a highlight.

Paddling Petoskey

Paddling along Lake Michigan at Petoskey was a bit intimidating for a Floridian who is used to sandy, not rocky, shores. But the views and clear water made for a fascinating trip.

Trails and TravelJohn Keatley

Finding Petoskey Stones

Where should you search for Petoskey stones? Petoskey, Michigan, of course! On our explorations by bike of this coastal town, we found our fair share. Here’s where to look and how to make them shine.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

The Outboard Motorboat Race

The buzzing sound in the distance caught our attention as we pulled into Conway on Michigan’s North Western State Trail: a most unusual boat race on Crooked Lake!

Trails and TravelJohn Keatley

BIKING: Little Traverse Wheelway, North Western State Trail
HIKING: North Country Trail, Top of Michigan Trails Council
PARKS: Oden State Fish Hatchery, Spring Lake Park
DRIVING TOURS: Bay Harbor, Bay View Association
SHOPPING: Downtown Petoskey, Bahnhof Sport, High Gear
DINING: City Park Grill, JW Filmores, Mim's Mediterranean Grill, Northwood Family Restaurant, Original Pancake House, Petoskey Brewing
LODGING: Bay Inn

Mackinaw City

A highlight here was hiking into the Headlands International Dark Sky Park after dark to watch for meteor showers over Lake Michigan and then returning the next day to see the trail itself. Touring the Icebreaker Mackinaw was very special as one of our long-time friends, Nimblewill Nomad, was once stationed on it.

Keeper of the Past

At McGulpin Point Lighthouse on the Straits of Mackinac, we unfolded layers of history surrounding not just the site but the docent on duty, Eric Klein, who has a passion for Great Lakes history.

Trails and TravelJohn Keatley

PARKS: Headlands International Dark Sky Park, Wilderness State Park
MUSEUMS: Heritage Village, Icebreaker Mackinaw, McGulpin Point
DRIVING TOUR: Tunnel of Trees Scenic Drive
DINING: Audie's Family Restaurant, Carmichael's

St. Ignace

The North Country Trail fronts Lake Huron in St. Ignace, connecting together sites of note. Several museums provide insight into Anishinaabe culture.

HIKING: Lake Huron Boardwalk, Chief Wawatam Park
MUSEUMS: Museum of Ojibwa Culture, Fort de Buade Museum
PARKS: St Anthony’s Rock
SHOPPING: Indian Village
DINING: Java Joes, Jose's Cantina, Mackinac Grill
LODGING: Baymont Inn

De Tour & Drummond Island

The main reason for planning this trip was to see where John's great-uncle managed the dolomite mine. The island is a fascinating place. The docent at the historical museum wasn't familiar with his uncle's book, but as we went to leave, we found Curt Knoblock's name on the charter members plaque above the door.

BIKING: Maxton Plains
PARKS: De Tour Roadside Park, De Tour Botanical Gardens, Big Shoal Bay Beach
Drummond Island Ferry
Drummond Island Welcome Center
MUSEUMS: Drummond Island Historical Museum
DINING: Northwood Restaurant, Sune's IGA Market
SHOPPING: Country Store

Naubinway & Engadine

Visiting with our friends Kath and Tom in Naubinway was a delight, not just because of their company and their beautiful cabin but all the people and places they introduced us to throughout the region.

Top-Of-The-Lake Snowmobile Museum

For a most unique museum, pop in to Naubinway - especially in winter - to learn about the in-depth history of snowmobiles through the evolution of the vehicle.

Trails and TravelJohn Keatley

PARKS: Top of the Lake Rest Area, Mill Pond Park
Engadine Farmer's Market
DINING: Farmhouse Restaurant, Gould City

Manistique

Thanks to Kath and Tom, we explored the Garden Peninsula, a part of Michigan we hadn't even heard of. Visiting the state's largest spring, we grabbed a state park pass to serve us for the rest of the trip.

Park Hopping near Manistique

A duo of state parks near Manistique - Palms Book and Fayette - showcases two very different periods of Michigan history in two outstanding natural settings.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

HIKING: Manistique Boardwalk, Palms Book and Fayette Historical State Parks
DRIVING TOUR: Garden Peninsula
DINING: The Dock

Marquette

As in Petoskey, we'd made plans in advance with our friends at the tourism bureau to hit the bike trails and pair them with museums along the route. Sandra's last visit was in the 90s, so it was a delight to see the city's waterfront transformation from industrial to parks, trails, and amazing views of Lake Superior.

Iron Ore Heritage Trail

Taking on a history-rich segment of Michigan’s Iron Ore Heritage Trail was satisfying as a bike ride and as a cultural immersion. Now if only I’d stayed on the trail…

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

HIKING: Au Train, North Country Trail, Presque Isle Park, Picnic Island Park
MUSEUMS: Marquette Maritime Museum, Michigan Iron Industry Museum
DRIVING TOUR: Lakenenland
SHOPPING: Lakeshore Bike, Quick Stop Bike Shop, Touch of Finland
DINING: Big Boy, Hudson's Classic Grill & Bar, Vango's Pizza
LODGING: Cedar Motor Inn

Ishpeming & Negaunee

Once mining towns, these communities now present their mining history along the bike path and at the Cliffs Shaft Mine Museum. Fun fact: brilliant aerospace engineer Kelly Johnson, who established the famed Skunk Works for Lockheed, was a native of Ishpeming.

BIKING: Iron Ore Heritage Trail
HIKING: Jackson Mine; Canyon Falls, North Country Trail
MUSEUMS: Cliffs Shaft Mine Museum
SHOPPING: Da Yoopers Tourist Trap
DINING: Midtown Bakery & Cafe, Negaunee; Ralph's Italian Deli, Ishpeming

Houghton

BIKING: Houghton Waterfront Trail
HIKING: Houghton Waterfront Park, Nara Nature Park
MUSEUMS: A.E. Seaman Mineral Museum
DINING: The Library Restaurant and Brew Pub, Roy's Pasties & Bakery
LODGING: Super 8 Lake Shore Drive

Hancock

Finlandia University
MUSEUMS: Finnish American Heritage Center
SHOPPING: North Wind Books

Keweenaw Peninsula

Time for Thimbleberries

Who expected to go foraging for berries in the Keweenaw? Not us! But a thimbleberry margarita led to woodland wanders looking for this tasty fruit.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Chasing Rockets in the Keweenaw

When we got wind of a rocket launch site at the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula, it was time for another off-road adventure.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Tip of the Keweenaw

Mountain biking to the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula means the opportunity to see what remains of the Keweenaw Rocket Range launch site.

Trails and TravelJohn Keatley

HIKING: Estivant Pines
PARKS: Snow Gauge Park, Bete Grise Preserve/Mendota Lighthouse, Bete Grise Beach, Fort Wilkins State Park, Keweenaw NPS Visitor Center, McClain State Park
SHOPPING: Downtown Calumet
DINING: Carmelitas Southwestern Grill, Calumet; The Mariner North, Copper Harbor; Harbor Haus, Copper Harbor
LODGING: Laurium Manor Inn

Ironwood

BIKING: Iron Belle Trail
HIKING: North Country Trail
PARKS: Hiawatha, Lake Gogebic State Park, Miners Memorial Heritage Park, Ottawa National Forest, Black River Harbor
DRIVING TOURS: Black River Scenic Byway
SHOPPING: Downtown Ironwood
DINING: The Cedars, Maplewood

Ironwood to Marquette

BIKING: Iron Ore Heritage Trail, NTN Trails
HIKING: North Country Trail
PARKS: Bond Falls, Agate Falls
MUSEUMS: Alberta Village
SHOPPING: Alberta
DINING: Jerzis 41, Champion; Iron Bay Restaurant, Marquette

Mountain Biking Marquette

Opting for a ride at my skill level, I still ended up on quite an adventure on the Noquemanon Trail Network, Marquette’s extensive network of mountain biking trails.

Trails and TravelJohn Keatley

Munising to Paradise

HIKING Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore: North Country Trail, Munising Falls, Sand Point Marsh, Miners Falls, Miners Castle, Log Slide
MUSEUMS: U.S. Coast Guard Museum
DRIVING TOURS: H-58 Scenic Highway, Grand Marais
SHOPPING: Downtown Munising
DINING: Dogpatch, Munising; Triangle Restaurant, McMillan

Paradise

HIKING: North Country Trail, Taquamenon Falls State Park; Whitefish Point
MUSEUMS: Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum
DINING: The Inn
LODGING: Magnuson Lakefront

Another Day in Paradise

It’s just another day in Paradise for us, except we actually are in Paradise, Michigan, an excellent base camp for visiting Taquamenon Falls and Whitefish Point.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Sault Ste Marie

HIKING: North Country Trail
DRIVING TOUR: Whitefish Bay Scenic Byway
MUSEUMS: Point Iroquois Lighthouse, Soo Locks Visitor Center
DINING: Dancing Crane Coffee Shop, Zorba’s Greek
LODGING: Baymont Inn, St. Ignace

The Shores of Whitefish Bay

A chance glance at a road sign on the way to Paradise led us on an unexpected but delightful half day exploration of the shores of Whitefish Bay in Hiawatha National Forest.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Mackinac Island

Star Line Ferry
BIKING: M-185 Loop, Mackinac Island State Park
HIKING: Lake Shore Nature Trail, Browns Brook Nature Trail, Arch Rock, Chimney Rock, Devil’s Kitchen, British Landing, Crack-on-the-Island
SHOPPING: Ryba’s Fudge, Joanne’s Fudge
DINING: Bistro on the Greens, Mission Point; Cannonball Drive Inn; Chianti’s, Mission Point; Grand Hotel Grand Luncheon Buffet
LODGING: Mission Point Resort

Circling Mackinac Island

The ultimate car-free paved bike loop in Michigan, the M-185 on Mackinac Island is worth its challenges to enjoy the beauty and access to trails.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Mission Relaxation

To truly let you unwind, a trip to Mackinac Island needs to be a few days long. Having historic Mission Point Resort as our home base provided us a calm, relaxing stay.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend

Mackinac Island Fudge

Mackinac Island Fudge isn’t a flavor: it’s a way of life for these Mackinac Island candy makers. Here’s how it’s made and how to choose the fudge that’s right for you.

Trails and TravelSandra Friend